I start these emails each day thinking I don’t have much to say… but then it just evolves. Let’s see where today’s update goes :0)

Breakfast.

Over cappuccinos we decided to head to the waterfront and go left versus right. Well, we started going right with a plan to go to the puppet theatre, but it was closed. So left! (Never go left.)

We walked along the water for a few kilometers (3+). This took us past the ferry terminals, which are actually quite small. We also passed some very tragic looking deserted buildings that seemed to be collapsing in on themselves in interesting ways.

Up a hill and over a bridge and we were back at the water – loosely described as beaches. Well, ok, they were beaches. However, in this case, it was a seawall with ladders into the water.

The water itself looked rather desperate – no living things, lots of floating debris and even the seaweed was brown and rather dead. We passed an empty playground and an almost empty sandy beach. I am sure the overcast skies contributed to the slightly dreary mood.

There were a few little bars and restaurants along the beach, though most were not open and the few that were seemed almost deserted. At some point we decided to stop for coffee at a little restaurant at the top of a hill on a point. We could see the turquoise sea and watched a group of men playing handball below.

Handball is a national sport in Croatia. It looks simple enough, though requires relatively high activity levels. Rick described it as the male equivalent of women’s beach volleyball, mostly because of the skimpy suits. He was not wrong.

The rain held off all day, though the walk back was very humid and a bit uninspiring. I was quite happy when the familiar Riva promenade came into view in the distance.

The walk reminded me that tourist areas of even the best cities can be a bit like visiting Disneyland; not representative of the real experience for those who live there.

I have included a photo of this bit of street art. There are references to “1950” everywhere. They usually included a red and blue banner, like the one in the background below. After so many sightings, I had to know what it meant. “1950”refers to the year that Torcida was formed, a fan club for supporters of the Hajduk Split soccer club. Mystery solved though I remain a bit puzzled as to why the formation of a fan club might be worth memorializing everywhere. Perhaps I just don’t really understand the complex rivalries in European Football.

We stopped at the hotel briefly, to drop off coats and umbrellas. As Rick and I both wanted to go to the loo, he stopped at the one in the lobby and I popped upstairs. Moments later my phone rang, it was Rick. He was locked in the washroom and could not get out.

Back down the stairs I went. I kept a straight face while explaining the problem to the gentleman at the desk. Clearly this was not the first time this had happened as he knew exactly what tool was required to open the door. This took approximately 10 seconds and Rick was free – albeit a bit grumpy and mumbling under his breath about the need to get a new lock. (When we returned to the hotel that night, the same fellow was at the desk and he had a bit of a tough time containing his laughter when we came in the door.)

When we reconvened in the lobby, Rick and Ken wanted to scope out a restaurant called “Fig” that one of the cyclists had told us about. Somehow we were separated along the way, perhaps because Cathy and I were distracted by a shoe store (one of many really). Just as we finished poking around, Ken miraculously appeared at the doorway. He knew where to find us.

Next stop? Afternoon gelato, always a fair swap for lunch. I had the most amazing vegan orange and ginger gelato! I have no idea what everyone else ordered.

Rick had been eyeing the Game of Thrones shop since our arrival and in particular the very large replica of the iron throne. It was conveniently located directly across the street our gelato stop. Customers were required to purchase a souvenir of some sort in order to actually sit on the throne. Said souvenir purchased, here is Rick doing his kingly version of Teagan’s creepy face.

With his greatest wish fulfilled, we headed to the Gold Gate to see the Gregory of Nin statue. The 28 foot tall statue was by the now familiar Ivan Mestovic. Gregory is famous for his unsuccessful bid to allow sermons in Croatian in 926. Anyone rubbing his big toe will have their wish granted. However, there is a requirement; your wish may not be too greedy and/or self-serving. Gregory is quite an impressive fellow! Cathy and I both took a moment to rub his very shiny toe, because, well you just never know. :0)

Wish accomplished, we wandered down a shopping street that came highly recommended by Rick. There were some beautiful clothes, but almost everything is ‘one size fits all’ which is never true when you are Robyn-sized. Cathy tried a few things while I acted as her wingman. Ultimately, no purchases were made.

At the bottom of the street we located the husbands, having a drink in the little courtyard that was the restaurant ‘Fig’. It was a pleasant location, not too busy, and the glass of rose was delicious.

We returned to the hotel where I began the laborious process of repacking our clean laundry and preparing for our departure the next day. I was actually quite surprised at how quickly it all came together. Those packing cubes are an amazing invention!

Rick had found a spot for dinner – not sure of his source – but it was awesome! It was a short walk out of town, to the left which felt rather risky after our earlier walk. It was hidden away in a collection of old streets, just past the ferry terminal.

The service was exceptional. Our waiter recommended some red wine which he actually decanted, something we had not seen in all of our time in Croatia. It was very good wine. We shared a small pizza as an appetizer and I had a local meat dish for my main. The unpronounceable “Cevapcicci” which was delicious. Completely stuffed, we walked back to town and had a last drink together in a restaurant on the Riva. I ordered what turned out to be a very respectable Old Fashioned.

Whenever we transition from one place to the next I experience a bit of nostalgia. It feels a bit like homesickness, but really isn’t. Tomorrow morning Cathy and Ken head for Rome. They have been the very best travel companions and we look forward to more adventures with them.

We will pick up our rental car to continue our Croatian adventures. I am looking forward to seeing more of this beautiful country, though I am beginning to feel the pull towards home, my bed, some different clothing, Hazel, and family and friends.