Adventures on the Walls of Dubrovnik

Somehow we managed to sleep most of the way through the night – I was semi-confident that exhaustion would eventually get the better of me. The bed was very comfortable, and the apartment on a tiny side street with very little (foot) traffic meant it was a peaceful rest.

Last night we had wandered through Old Town looking for a little grocery store so we could have breakfast in our room. We left it rather late, and were turned away from a few shops already closing. We finally found some success at a small shop, just a block from the apartment.

Our breakfast consisted of bananas and yogurt. I had pistachio yogurt, which I had never tasted before, and it was extraordinarily good. We headed to a nearby square for coffee. It was already bustling with activity as a small local market was setting up. Rick picked up some amazing fresh figs, which we all shared.

Fuelled by caffeine, and armed with water bottles, we headed off to walk the city walls. Although the distance is not long, 3 km or so, there is a great deal of upping and downing along the way. Combined with the heat radiating off the stone work, it was a toasty walk. I had read that the temperature can be 10 degrees higher than ambient on while the walls, and it certainly felt that way; we were pretty sweaty by the end. The views were spectacular. For the first time I can ever recall, I spent more time admiring the views than trying to capture the experience in photos.

We stopped once along the way for another cappuccino, but otherwise just kept walking (and admiring). The ocean side was lovely, and there was a bit of a breeze that kept it cool.

We moved along much faster once we hit the city side of the wall; there was no breeze and only pounding sun. Our walk ended somewhat unceremoniously, with a rapid descent from the wall to the shade below. We did manage to make it the whole way around at least.

Along the way we passed a few ‘beaches’ which, in Dubrovnik, essentially consist of a platform carved out of the rock with a small metal set of stairs to get you up and down the rocks, and an even smaller set to climb out of the water. These rock beaches were incredibly popular, and all of them were crowded with people sunning and swimming.

We kept an eye out for a little restaurant, built right into the wall, with a small beach below known Buza Bar. My friend Danielle had described it after a trip there several years ago. I am pretty sure we found it and carefully noted its location for a return sunset visit.

We had a late lunch, which included Aperol Spritzers, at a restaurant looking out onto the harbour. Someone told us before we came that the food here was wonderful and whoever that was – thank you – you were not wrong. I had a burrata salad and a plate of marinated zucchini, which was beautifully presented with a drizzle of dill sauce and some ‘spots’ of a creamy cheese – which I generously shared. ;0)

I had heard, and read, about a Franciscan Monastery in Old Town that was also the site of one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe, operating continuously since 1317. It took us a bit to find the Monastery because there are in fact two monasteries in an area as small as Old Town. Surprise!

The cloisters were also beautiful and there were some interesting artifacts. In the end, beyond longevity, the pharmacy was.. well … a pharmacy albeit with some old fashioned scales and equipment.

We booked one of the 10 Michelin Star restaurants for dinner – 8:00 reservations. I considered how I was going to stay conscious for a meal that late in the day – even allowing for the fct that it would be the afternoon at home.

In an effort to stay awake, we decided to walk back towards the wall and Buza Bar to watch the sunset over the ocean. Thank you Danielle – it was beautiful and we pleasantly passed the time until dinner. It was very crowded, with minimal drink options. Wine was efficiently ordered only by colour, no need to waste effort selecting a particular vineyard or varietal.

People were perched all along the rocks below the wall to watch the setting sun. A number of kayaking groups were out trying to capture the moment. I took several photos, however, on reflection, our Ucluelet sunsets are at least as nice.

Dinner at Restaurant 360 was amazing, everything was perfect, especially my passion fruit cocktail. I have really developed a liking for the sharp, sweet, tangy taste of passion fruit. The little amuse bouches, and the main courses, were all quite spectacular. That Michelin star was well deserved. We left 2+ hours later, happily satisfied with a spectacular meal and excellent service.

Tomorrow, we will be up early and off on a boat trip to the Blue Cave. I confess that even I am surprised (appalled) by my recent commitment to boats… 8 days is not enough, I agreed to add one more day. In truth, the experience looks like it will be amazing so I will Gravol up and go for it. I am challenged with what to wear (a one piece bathing suit seems poorly considered) but we will manage.

I am sure you will all be anxiously awaiting the next instalment. Will I survive? Will we still have friends afterwards? Do I actually have enough Gravol for all of this misadventure? Time will tell.

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